Russian-European husky

History of the Russian-European husky breed

The Russian-European husky, as an independent breed, was created as planned. In 1949, the Soviet breeders decided to give the fishermen another kind of hunting dog, taking as a basis the gene pool of the Karelian, Arkhangelsk, and Komi huskies. However, the most difficult thing for specialists was not to cross individuals from the listed offspring (such mating has long been practiced by amateurs), but to bring the resulting offspring to a single type. As an example: by the middle of the XX century in the USSR there were about ten varieties of Russian-European huskies that had a very distant resemblance to each other.

One of the very first and prolific participants in the experiment is a dog named Tuzik, who belonged to the breeder Sh. A. Isaev. This native of Komi-laika helped dozens of Russian-European husky puppies to be born, in fact becoming the official great-grandfather of the breed. As for the formation of a single exterior, it happened only by 1964, although work on individual lines of the breed continued until the perestroika times. It is known, for example, that the most popular branches of Russian-European huskies descended from Putik, Bagel and Ball males, and their representatives received excellent external indicators and developed hunting instincts from their ancestors.

Since the beginning of the 70s, new breed groups of Russian-European huskies began to appear. These are the Jack and Joy lines known to all modern breeders. Unfortunately, already in 1979, the breeding of hunting huskies lost its popularity, which was facilitated by the state ban on shooting squirrels. And although by that time the breed had made a good exhibition career, and a year later even received FCI registration, this fact had a negative impact on its development. Today, it is possible to meet a Russian-European husky on the hunt less often than its relatives, Westerners. Nevertheless, the fans of these universal artisans remained, which helped them not to disappear, as well as to preserve their performance characteristics.

Video: Russian-European husky

Russian-European Husky breed standard

The Russian-European huskies have a very memorable appearance, which is partly due to the poor palette of colors. The dimensions of the representatives of the breed are average, the musculature is dry, while the dogs do not look thin-boned. The height of an adult male Russian-European husky is 52-58 cm; females – 48-54 cm. In general, "girls" have a more elongated silhouette (the elongation index is in the range of 100-105), since such a feature of the constitution is necessary for bearing offspring. Otherwise, males look brighter and more solid than bitches, although they do not show significant advantages in work.

Head

Wedge-shaped outlines are typical for the heads of all Russian-European huskies. Between the dry, sharp muzzle and the skull, a stop is noticeable, which seems very sharp because of the convex brow arches. The muzzle itself is shorter than the skull, while its upper line is parallel to the forehead line. The nape of the relka is rounded, with an easily palpable bump and a parietal ridge.

Lips, teeth and jaws

Elastic, tightly pressed to the jaws, the lips do not form flaccid flaps. The teeth are massive, even, closely spaced in a row. The only appropriate type of bite is scissors.

Eyes

The Russian-European husky has dark brown small eyes, which are characterized by a slightly kosovat eyelid incision.

Ears

The shape of the ear is triangular, while the base of the hearing organ is wide and the tip is sharp. The ear position is standing. The ear blade is small and extremely mobile.

Neck

Optimal proportions when the length of the neck and head of the animal have the same value. To the touch, the neck is very muscular, dry in outline, placed in relation to the body at an angle from 45 ° to 50 °.

Housing

Russian-European huskies are dogs of moderately strong build with a wide chest that descends to the elbows and a straight, but not long back. The lower back of the animal is convex, with a developed muscular corset. The abdomen with a clearly drawn transition from the sternum to the abdominal area. The croup zone is quite short, with a slight sloping.

Limbs

REL's legs are dry, with well-pumped muscles, located parallel to each other when looking at the animal from the front. The shoulders are moderately oblique, the processes of the elbows are large, directed backwards. The pasterns are of medium size, have a slight slope.

The hind legs are formed by long shins and almost vertical metatarsals. The paws have the shape of a regular oval, thanks to the clenched fingers. The presence of dewclaws is not welcome.

Tail

The tail of the husky has the shape of a crescent or a ring, curved in the direction of the back and pressed against the outside of the thigh. When unfolded, the tail reaches the flattened (hock) joint or is located at a distance of 1-2 cm from it.

Wool

The coat of the Russian-European husky is a stiff straight awn and a thick undercoat layer. The dense hair covering the dog's head and ears is very short. The shoulders and neck are "dressed" in a rich awn, forming an expressive "collar", and behind the cheekbones are stylish "sideburns". Males have longer hair on the withers. The hair on the legs is short, tight-fitting, slightly lengthening only on the back of the limbs. On the hind legs there are neat feathering. Between the fingers, the wool sprouts in a thick brush, while the paws are covered with short and smooth hairs. The tail is without suspension, but with an elongated straight spine on the lower part.

Color

Russian-European huskies are born black-piebald, completely white, and also with a solid black color.

Possible vices

Serious exterior flaws, for which the exhibition score is reduced, are called vices. In Russian-European huskies, these include:

• deviation from the growth recorded by the standard by more than 2 cm;
• speckles on the body, as well as specks not in the tone of the main suit on the legs and head;
• wool with a collapse, wavy or curly;
• long head, massive muzzle without stop;
• hanging or semi-erect ears;
• raznoglazie;
• hunchbacked back and barrel chest;
• club-footed or with a leg spread;
• straight or saber-shaped tail.

Character of the Russian-European husky

The Russian-European husky is a dog in love with the owner, and at the same time with all his close associates, starting with family members and ending with friends. Representatives of this family, in principle, are not prone to aggression against humans, and when it comes to children, huskies immediately turn into the most good-natured and forgiving creatures in the universe. The territorial instinct of the breed is very moderately developed, so the watchmen of its representatives are mediocre. Nevertheless, individual breeders specifically cultivate protective qualities in their wards. Such individuals are noticeably more suspicious of their relatives and are no longer so loyal to strangers. If you need a dog that can be attracted not only to hunting, but also to a simplified version of the ZKS (protective guard service), look for a seller specializing in breeding guard huskies.

The main weapon for combating suspicious guests, available in the arsenal of every Russian-European husky, is a loud bark. By the way, about the "vocal data" of the breed: they are happy to give a voice to the RELL about and without, and especially piercing concerts are arranged by bored individuals. Accordingly, if you keep a Russian-European husky in an apartment and often go away on business, get ready to spoil relations with neighbors who are forced to be unwitting listeners of the pet's musical exercises.

The patience of Russian-European huskies has become something of a legend, so a properly educated dog will always allow the owner to pull a bowl of food out from under her nose and suppress any retaliatory protest. At the same time, relkas react sharply to unfair punishments, so before you slap a dog on the nose with a newspaper, think carefully about whether the pet deserved such treatment. Also take into account the needs of the breed in motor activity. If the Russian-European husky does not go hunting for a long time and at the same time lives in the house, the destruction of the interior is inevitable. And the point here is not in the obstinate nature of the relocks, but in natural instincts that do not find application in everyday life.

Hunting with Russian-European husky

Russian-European huskies are universal tradesmen, in Russian realities they work perfectly both for game and for any animal. In addition to flair, the breed uses sight and hearing in the search, which makes hunting with relkas as productive as possible. In addition, Russian-European huskies are distinguished by the breadth and speed of search, which help them to compete successfully with Westerners. A very important nuance: different methods of working with game and animals, found in representatives of different breed lines. Usually, most relocks work with a lower sense, going straight on the trail, and only occasionally using auditory receptors.

Part of the huskies belongs to the type of the upper ones, that is, guided by the smell coming from the ground and spread by the lower layers of the air. Moreover, in different conditions, the dog can change the technique of exploration, moving from the upper sniff to the lower and back. A separate category of REL – hunters by ear. The sensitivity of such individuals is slightly less developed, therefore, in the process of chasing prey, the animal often stops, then runs towards the sound and only in the final barks at the prey. On all counts, wind huskies are considered ideal hunters, having equally developed sense of smell and hearing, but there are much fewer such individuals, it is difficult to find them.

Some experts recommend specially training the hearing of a pet, starting from puppy age. The husky is taught to listen to the whisper of the owner, to pay attention to the sounds of wildlife – the cries of birds, the knock of a woodpecker on a tree. However, such exercises do not always give the desired result, since individuals with a dominant sense of smell will still prefer to rely on their nose rather than their own ears.

Parenting, training, nagging

The training of the Russian-European husky is based on helping the animal to become a professional forager of forest and field trophies. The rest of the service commands are dismissed at the same time. At the same time, with a pet living in urban realities, you can take a course of UGC (managed urban dog). However, according to experienced hunters, such "education" does not affect the instincts of the breed in the best way. As a result, dogs trained in service commands work much worse.

You can fuck a future hunting husky from three months, regardless of the time of year. Start with short walks in the forest and try not to make noise so that the puppy can listen to new sounds for him. The technique of stalking also depends on what kind of animal and game you are going to hunt. For example, to work with a waterfowl, you need to teach a puppy to overcome the fear of reservoirs. It is better to plant a Russian-European husky on a grouse in the autumn and in those forests where feathered young animals definitely live.

Important: Russian-European huskies, who have been living in city apartments for years and go hunting only once a season, may lose the sharpness of their flair. Usually, the sense of smell is restored in the process of work, but this does not happen immediately.

Skills required for hunting huskies: walking next to the owner, readiness to sit down and serve the item on command, including from the water. Breeders recommend organizing the educational process with the help of additional equipment: a 20-meter leash with a carbine, a one-tone whistle, a sock (a piece of wood or a soft cloth toy). It is permissible to use a thin rod when practicing the command "No!". The traditional scheme: a dog caught picking up food from the ground is held at the "crime scene" and sharply, but not too strongly, lashed with a vine. If there was no rod at hand, it is useful to pull the leash and voice the command. At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to beat a Russian-European husky with a hand or a leash.

By the age of six months, a Russian-European husky puppy is usually socialized: he knows his nickname and responds to it, is used to walking on a leash and fits into the hierarchical system of the family in which he lives. At 6 months, the animal can be prepared for hunting and trained. The command "Nearby!" is studied first. The owner takes the Russian-European husky outside, gives an order, patting himself on the thigh and at the same time pulling the puppy to him by the leash. Then the strap is gently released, and the pet receives an encouraging stroking or treat. By the way, it is better to buy a waist bag for the latter. Over time, the husky will understand where the owner hides treats, and will try to earn them.

When the Russian-European husky learns to walk side by side, start practicing the command "Sit!". Everything is traditional here: after the order, the pet is gently pressed on the sacrum, forcing it to fall on its hind legs. In parallel, the puppy is taught how to properly serve the diarrhea. The scheme is simple: shake the animal in front of its nose with a cloth stuffed animal. When the pet starts grabbing the object with its teeth, throw it forward with the command "Submit!", and after the husky picks up the stuffed animal, gently take it away, encouraging the puppy with a treat.

If you plan to go to waterfowl, teach the Russian-European husky to swim. Only without extreme: throwing a puppy into the water, as homegrown "pros" do, is a harmful and empty activity that will provoke hydrophobia in the animal and nothing else. It is better to start with crossing shallow reservoirs (the owner goes first, followed by the puppy) and only in the warm season, because dogs also need time to get used to and harden. As for priming on a large animal, it can be practiced at stations and with individuals at least 1 year old. And of course, take into account the individual characteristics of your own pet: some huskies are not malicious enough for such an occupation and are often afraid of potential prey that surpasses them in size.

Maintenance and care

Despite the growing popularity of housing Russian-European huskies, the ideal housing for the breed remains a spacious aviary, facing the south side with a lattice and equipped with a warm booth. The mandatory "walking minimum" for Russian-European huskies is from 2 to 3 hours a day, while it does not matter where your pet lives – in an apartment or in the courtyard of a country cottage.

Do not be afraid of the destructive behavior of Russian-European huskies living in houses. If you walk and hunt enough with a dog, it will not cause lawlessness. The exception is puppies who taste the world around them, but you can also find a compromise with them. Provide the puppy with enough toys and treat him with cartilage and flat bones more often so that the baby has something to occupy his teeth with.

Hygiene

The care of apartment and aviary huskies will be different. The former, as a rule, are poorer dressed, because they live in warmth, therefore, such individuals freeze faster during winter hunting. Russian-European huskies shed their apartment during the year, so combing the pet several times a week will save your home from wool lumps. Aviary dogs shed their "fur coats" seasonally, that is, twice a year, which significantly saves the owner's strength. Theoretically, it is necessary to comb the yard huskies only during the molting period, but in practice it has to be done much more often, especially if the animal often goes hunting, where it can attach burrs.

Important: puppies of Russian-European huskies cannot be washed. Only adult dogs are allowed to bathe, and only in cases when it is really necessary.

The ears of Russian-European huskies are cleaned as they become dirty with the help of hygienic drops and a piece of clean cloth. If there is a small amount of sulfur in the funnel, do not disturb the pet in vain: the husky is not a decorative dog that needs to be washed and combed endlessly. The breed's eyes are healthy, so special care is not required for them. Just brush away dust lumps from the corners of the eyelids and once a week clean your eyes with chamomile infusion and a cloth napkin.

Remove accumulated plaque from the dog's teeth weekly: you can do this with a toothbrush or a silicone nozzle on your finger. An alternative to the classic cleaning is solid treats like veins, as well as carrots and tomato juice. During the hunting season, special attention should be paid to the legs of the Russian-European husky. If scratches or cuts are found on the paws during examination, treat the wounds with an antiseptic. In winter, it is useful for urban huskies to lubricate the pads of their paws with protective creams that will protect the skin from poisonous road reagents.

Feeding

Russian-European huskies are often fed their own livestock. The only nuance of such a menu: from helminths, a dog eating hunting trophies will have to be processed more often. If the work in the forest did not work out, the pet's diet is based on any lean meat (from beef to poultry), raw tripe and offal. Once a week, the meat can be replaced with fish fillets. To make dog dinners a little cheaper, they are also mixed with cereals – buckwheat and rice.

It is useful to dilute the meat component with seasonal fruits, young herbs, vegetables. Russian-European huskies will not refuse fermented dairy products, so get ready to periodically buy low-fat kefir, cottage cheese and fermented baked milk for your pet. To improve the appearance and density of the coat, it is recommended to treat the dog with a teaspoon of unrefined vegetable oil – it can be sunflower, olive or linseed oil.

Health and diseases of Russian-European huskies

Purebred huskies practically do not have hereditary diseases, with the exception of hip dysplasia, the mechanism of which has not yet been fully studied. At the same time, you will still have to monitor the pet's health, given its active lifestyle. For example, REL are often injured while hunting and can also pick up various infections there. Treatment of representatives of the breed from ectoparasites, as well as anthelmintic preparations in the hunting season is mandatory. Sometimes Russian-European huskies are diagnosed with epilepsy and urolithiasis. In addition, some individuals may have food allergies, which it is quite realistic to fight through a properly formulated diet.

How to choose a puppy

• Collect as much information as possible about the litter producers: the presence of exhibition diplomas, pedigrees, exterior, tests for genetic dysplasia.
• Do not look for show puppies from breeders engaged in breeding purely working lines and vice versa. Hunting huskies will never have such a glamorous exterior as their show relatives, and exhibition individuals are not so prey on the hunt.
• Choose a Russian-European female husky if you are going to "work furs" – when hunting squirrel and sable, "girls" are always more collected and prudent.
• For wild boar hunting, it is better to choose males – they are more adventurous, angrier and much bolder than bitches.
• If the seller did not provide a litter inspection report, it is very likely that there are mestizos in it, because of which the breeding commission refused to issue documents to the breeder.
• Try to visit the kennel in advance so as not to take the last remaining puppy. Evaluate the entire litter: ideally, if all the babies are about the same size.
• Maximum attention is paid to the shape of the head and the bite of the puppy, since it is these exterior indicators that determine the breed of Russian–European huskies.
• It is not recommended to take the most dominant puppy in the litter: after growing up, such a relka will try to lead in hunting and in everyday life.
• Test the hearing acuity and sensitivity of Russian-European husky puppies before buying. Click your fingers over the kids' heads and see which of them will be the first to react to the noise. The smell is checked by a bowl of food placed at a distance from the animals. The puppy who first smelled the treat will be the most sensitive in the litter.
• When buying an adult dog with an exhibition diploma, pay attention to how it behaves in the ring. If the pet does not go near the owner and barks angrily at everyone, hunting with such a dominant will not be successful.

The price of Russian-European huskies

It is easy to buy a Russian-European husky within the Russian Federation, and for quite modest money. It is already more difficult to purchase a purebred REL with club documents. The fact is that most hunters do not see anything wrong with knitting their wards with representatives of other breeds or even mestizos. Accordingly, it will no longer be possible to go to the exhibition with such a dog.

The most expensive offer on the market is adult Russian–European huskies with working or exhibition diplomas and a decent pedigree. The cost of such dogs can range from $300 to $1000. A club puppy from good manufacturers "pulls" on $100 – $150. As for the half-breed babies, they can often be obtained for free or for a symbolic price. However, no one will guarantee the safety of hunting instincts in such animals.